Finished Object: Jean Ross Pants

K.Hep pants sit close to nudity in terms of comfort, at least in my book.  I made these from Wearing History’s Smooth Sailing pattern, but my heart was with Jean Ross of Weimar Berlin:

I’m one step closer.   I wish I could slip a note in her hand letting her know that in 80 years another unsmiling brunette would find her photo and take inspiration.  I can’t easily remove the demon eyes, and don’t have the time to invest figuring out how.  So I’m possessed…

Pockets courtesy of Oliver + S Ice Cream dress.

The pants came out too big because I over-compensated for my fat holiday ahem in the alterations.  I’m not bothered and suspect that only the most critical eye would trip over my wrinkles.

I used an over sized loop and a leather covered shank button at the side.  With limited free time, I could sew like a mad thing or take excessively detailed photos.  Sometimes the photos win, but not this week.

Unbleached organic cotton, one of my favorite fabrics to work with.  It becomes soft and buttery, almost velvety with repeated wash and wear.  If I had to choose just one bottom weight to wear the rest of my life, I’d choose this.

My alterations:

I shaved off a little wedge in the CB waistband seam, added a little to the high hip at the side (for my muffin tops) and scooped out the bottom of the crotch curve.   I knew I was trying a scatter gun approach; it worked well enough.  The pants are comfy with no visible camel toe.  In the future, I might straighten the side seams and re-draw the grainline.  I’m indebted to SewistaFashionista and Sherry for your advice– it worked, I have wearable pants!

I must press on with my work wardrobe project (girdle jeans tomorrow from Burda 08-2009-106), but I’m already planning the Jean Ross top and knitted beret.  I finished the Smooth Sailing Blouse today, in a double gauze.  She’ll appear directly.

(Photos of these pants taken on a chair, though not necessarily as elegantly as others…)

Smiley Pants: A Short Muslin

Blame the holidays- the constant rain prevented hiking or kayaking, nothing to do but eat fatty foods, lie around, and drink scotch.  I don’t fit into half my clothes, and can’t make accurate fitting decisions for the pieces intended for my next wardrobe collection.

Bother.

Smooth Sailing shorts from last August:

Wrinkles!  Wrinkles everywhere!  I needed a full butt alteration.  The June/July 2009 (?) Threads offered a complex solution masquerading as a simple fix.   That particular subterfuge sits badly with me.  It sets beginners up for failure and they blame themselves.  If it’s easy, great.  If it takes a little head-scratching, then don’t lie about it.

After Threads’ solution:

The CB needs scooping below the waistband.  As my hips measure 1.25″ larger than when I did the alteration in November, I’m not surprised I still have wrinkles.  The alteration had the effect of changing the crotch curve and adding 3/4″ to the back inseam and 1 7/8″ to the back side seam.  I left the front as-is.

I want to make these as cuffed pants with pretty hong kong seams and tabbed double welt pockets in unbleached organic cotton.  I dare not without establishing perfect fit.

I like using fitted clothing for gentle weight control, but at the moment it’s plain irritating.

Fitting and trouser goddesses, I beg your opinions.  If I add a bit to the front inseam, would that help my smiles in the short term without making the pants too baggy in the long term?  These particular pants fit closely through the hips then swirl to the floor.  I hope if I add to the front inseam, when I shed the holiday weight the extra space will melt into the wearing ease.

Why not wait?  I’m launching Wardrobe Club next Saturday, and I want to finish as much of my own wardrobe as possible before then.

In the interests of full disclosure, this came home with me from work the other day:

I tagged them with “DIBS!” when they arrived weeks ago, and only just added to stock.  That’s how I make resolutions work- I trespass, forgive myself, and do better next time.  I have to allow some leeway with breaking a habit, whether it’s fatty foods or fabric.