Hey! I’ve been a bit quiet the past couple of weeks, working and turning 30 and keeping a close eye on our tester’s group. I’ll keep working on balancing my online/offline time so I can blog more regularly… It’s a little harder than I thought it might be…! Our testing group on FB has been really busy, with new Pipi shells cropping up all over, I’m so pleased with how she’s testing so far.
And now it’s time to test the Endeavour Trousers!
You saw the Endeavour Trousers and Shorts when I asked for Pipi Testers earlier this month, I was being sneaky…
Endeavour is named after the ship James Cook sailed when he discovered strings of islands in the South Pacific, including New Zealand and Australia. He named much of the coastline in my part of the world, and they say he “left nothing unattempted.” I like that. Endeavour seemed a fitting name for a sailor-y pants pattern, especially since for many sewists, pants sewing and fitting feels like a daunting undertaking.
I want to change that. Months ago, a client emailed me about my old pants block service… I stopped doing the blocks once Cake took over my life, but her email set me obsessing over making a pants pattern. Of course they’d be “K.Hep” style trousers!
I spent a few weeks going through the stacks of custom blocks I made over the years and digging around in my waist-hip ratio numbers. I still get emails regularly from that survey and have thousands of data points. I went back over my Hummingbird Skirt notes-to-self on ways to improve the Cup Sizes for Your Derriere, then I drafted a pair of wide-leg trousers in my nearest base size to test out the design in my head.
They were just the thing- the drape, the angle of the pocket, the yoke. The first few Sailor fronts were various shades of dreadful, but I got where I wanted eventually… Then I drafted the rest of the bases.
The pattern is finished now, time to test her! Endeavour comes with two views- Sailor and Darling. Darling is named in honor of Grace Darling, the lighthouse-keeper’s daughter who fired the imaginations of Victorian-era England with a daring rescue at sea. She really deserves her own post.
Darling view has a side zipper and button loop waistband closure. Her flat front slips smoothly below other tops, but the seaming keeps it interesting if you wear a shorter top or tuck in a blouse. It’s also ripe for piping or topstitching. I made this version in a handkerchief-weight linen-cotton chambray, as a counterpoint to the very heavy red denim Sailor Endeavours. Her hem is intentionally short here, because I often find myself walking on wet ground and this pair is for me to wear into rags.
Both Darling and Sailor views are intended to sit at the natural waist, with a relatively straight silhouette from the front. The fullness is thrown toward the cf and cb of the leg rather than the side seam, which is my favorite shape for this type of trouser. I didn’t custom draft these, I used my size/shape as written in the pattern and altered according to the instructions. My hip measurement is 37″-falling between Endy sizes. I used a 40 hip base and fit intuitively at the side seams, giving me this smooth, smooth fit.
Endeavour sizing is similar to the Hummingbird Skirt. Each base size is a hip measurement- 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55 inches. I added in the 30 base, as I’ve had many requests for smaller sizing. I think it would also likely work well for teens/girls. Each waist is tied to four different waist measurements. This provides pattern pieces cut in 24 different shapes, with an alteration step in the pattern to fine tune the fit. Each base was drafted and proportioned individually, not graded out from a single sample size.
I want to test all 24 shapes, as well as testing the pattern on some body shapes that don’t fall neatly into the Endy sizing. I had a great response from our current group of Cake testers, but I would like to add another dozen or so volunteers to lend a hand and round out the sizes/shapes. I have room in every size, and especially hope to hear from those in the 30″ hip range.
If you’d like to lend a hand, you’ll need to have a Facebook account. I hate to have that as a requirement, but testing together as a private group has been really good. I want to test all of the shapes/sizes while preserving your privacy, so let me know your waist and hip and facebook email address in the form below to volunteer as a tester (no need to post measurements in comments):
It’s alright if you haven’t sewn trousers before, but it’s a good idea if you know your way around the sewing machine at least a bit. I’ll send out invites in the next day or two, you can join the group and have a look around. Then you will receive a paper copy of the Endeavour Trousers & Shorts pattern by post next week, and we’ll try to get the testing sewn up before the holiday season is upon us!
What do you think? What patterns are your TNT trousers? What do you look for in a good pair of pants? (I hear you giggling, England!)