Sharing Endeavours

Hey!  I’ve been a bit quiet the past couple of weeks, working and turning 30 and keeping a close eye on our tester’s group.  I’ll keep working on balancing my online/offline time so I can blog more regularly… It’s a little harder than I thought it might be…!  Our testing group on FB has been really busy, with new Pipi shells cropping up all over, I’m so pleased with how she’s testing so far.

And now it’s time to test the Endeavour Trousers!

You saw the Endeavour Trousers and Shorts when I asked for Pipi Testers earlier this month, I was being sneaky…

replica HMS Endeavour in Sydney, click for source

replica HMS Endeavour in Sydney

Endeavour is named after the ship James Cook sailed when he discovered strings of islands in the South Pacific, including New Zealand and Australia.  He named much of the coastline in my part of the world, and they say he “left nothing unattempted.”  I like that.  Endeavour seemed a fitting name for a sailor-y pants pattern, especially since for many sewists, pants sewing and fitting feels like a daunting undertaking.

I want to change that.  Months ago, a client emailed me about my old pants block service… I stopped doing the blocks once Cake took over my life, but her email set me obsessing over making a pants pattern.  Of course they’d be “K.Hep” style trousers!

I spent a few weeks going through the stacks of custom blocks I made over the years and digging around in my waist-hip ratio numbers.  I still get emails regularly from that survey and have thousands of data points.  I went back over my Hummingbird Skirt notes-to-self on ways to improve the Cup Sizes for Your Derriere, then I drafted a pair of wide-leg trousers in my nearest base size to test out the design in my head.

They were just the thing- the drape, the angle of the pocket, the yoke.  The first few Sailor fronts were various shades of dreadful, but I got where I wanted eventually… Then I drafted the rest of the bases.

Picture 23

The pattern is finished now, time to test her!  Endeavour comes with two views- Sailor and Darling.  Darling is named in honor of Grace Darling, the lighthouse-keeper’s daughter who fired the imaginations of Victorian-era England with a daring rescue at sea.  She really deserves her own post.

Darling view has a side zipper and button loop waistband closure. Her flat front slips smoothly below other tops, but the seaming keeps it interesting if you wear a shorter top or tuck in a blouse.  It’s also ripe for piping or topstitching. I made this version in a handkerchief-weight linen-cotton chambray, as a counterpoint to the very heavy red denim Sailor Endeavours.  Her hem is intentionally short here, because I often find myself walking on wet ground and this pair is for me to wear into rags.

Both Darling and Sailor views are intended to sit at the natural waist, with a relatively straight silhouette from the front.  The fullness is thrown toward the cf and cb of the leg rather than the side seam, which is my favorite shape for this type of trouser.  I didn’t custom draft these, I used my size/shape as written in the pattern and altered according to the instructions.  My hip measurement is 37″-falling between Endy sizes.  I used a 40 hip base and fit intuitively at the side seams, giving me this smooth, smooth fit.

Endeavour sizing is similar to the Hummingbird Skirt.  Each base size is a hip measurement- 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55 inches.  I added in the 30 base, as I’ve had many requests for smaller sizing.  I think it would also likely work well for teens/girls.  Each waist is tied to four different waist measurements.  This provides pattern pieces cut in 24 different shapes, with an alteration step in the pattern to fine tune the fit.  Each base was drafted and proportioned individually, not graded out from a single sample size.

I want to test all 24 shapes, as well as testing the pattern on some body shapes that don’t fall neatly into the Endy sizing.  I had a great response from our current group of Cake testers, but I would like to add another dozen or so volunteers to lend a hand and round out the sizes/shapes.  I have room in every size, and especially hope to hear from those in the 30″ hip range.

If you’d like to lend a hand, you’ll need to have a Facebook account.  I hate to have that as a requirement, but testing together as a private group has been really good.  I want to test all of the shapes/sizes while preserving your privacy, so let me know your waist and hip and facebook email address in the form below to volunteer as a tester (no need to post measurements in comments):

It’s alright if you haven’t sewn trousers before, but it’s a good idea if you know your way around the sewing machine at least a bit.  I’ll send out invites in the next day or two, you can join the group and have a look around.  Then you will receive a paper copy of the Endeavour Trousers & Shorts pattern by post next week, and we’ll try to get the testing sewn up before the holiday season is upon us!

What do you think?  What patterns are your TNT trousers?  What do you look for in a good pair of pants? (I hear you giggling, England!)


27 comments

  1. Oh, wow, I loooove these and want them both! My TNT pants so far are colette’s juniper – also wide legged pants. In fact, I just made them again in a mid-weight wool for the unusually warm autumn we’re having in Malta. I’ve made them in a light linen and in a heavy wool suiting. But I would love to have a pattern that sits higher and has a side zip or other closure as they are slightly low cut, plus have a fly front. What fun, Steph, Can’t wait to test or buy the pattern and make them!

    • Thanks, Francesca! Is it warm in Malta just now? Pretty warm here, too, but we’re going into summer… I never was much of a fan of zip fly fronts on womens’ clothes… I know it’s a thing but… Idk, I always just liked the flat front vintagey look better. :)

      • snap, hate them! My fave pants before I got into sewing again were Zara’s crepe wide legs with a side zip.

        Yup, it’s hovering around the 22s with a dash of 24 sometimes:). It was apparently the warmest October on record, and something tells me it’s going to be the same for November. And we are going into our winter! At least it has cooled down quite a lot as by end September I was sick of heat and sometimes humidity….. but climate change is a myth, right?

        Steph – I just re-read your post – happy birthday, you beautiful Scorpio, you! No wonder you have those intensely beautiful eyes. You look lovely and very content in these photos and that pool is just amazing:)

    • Thanks! Hmm, I’ve had requests to expand my sizes beyond 55, but every time it comes up and I ask for help, I don’t hear back… I bet something could be done with the 55….. Hmmm…. Food for thought, thanks Ruth.

  2. They look awesome! I sent in my measurements but I wasn’t sure what you meant by “email for FB”. I am assuming that meant the email address I am registered with on FB?

  3. Wow, so exciting, they look fantastic. Hope I get picked as I really don’t want to wait!!! They are just what I need for work, and play, and everything!!!

  4. They’re gorgeous! The only trousers (hey…I’m British ;) I’ve made were from a Simplicity Perfect Fit Pattern, they were wide legged and pretty complicated with a fly, placket, pocket, waistband etc but came together really well. Am looking forward to seeing the results of your tests but can’t test right now as life is manic…

    • Thanks! Oh that’s great, I’ve wondered how their PF pants go but haven’t tried them out. Ah, yeah, life does indeed get crazy sometimes. No worries, the pattern should be out early in Jan… :)

  5. These look amazing! I threw my name in the hat but if you have other testers in my measurements go ahead and choose them instead. Unless you’re looking for some tall feedback but you’ve made it easy for us to add length in the other patterns so I’m not too worried about these!

    • Thanks, Em! I am looking to run Endy by a few taller/shorter ladies, to really get a good idea of how Endy works. I did add in a length adjustment set of illustrations, it’s simple and it helps make sure we maintain the drape/proportion of the leg through alteration. :)

  6. Hey Steph. Congrats on the big 30! I just had a little girl and so my waist and hips are the same but my tummy needs some fitting around.

    I don’t have a TNT pattern for trousers but I did just sew some flares from a 1970’s vintage pattern and loved the look. I have some green linen your endys would look great in.

    BTW your pool looks so inviting. I think this summer is going to to a hotty.

    • Thanks! I know I’m “supposed” to be sad about 30 but I’ve been really looking forward to it for a while. :) Ah, tummies, yes, they can be a bit of trouble to fit.. I have a bit of tummy that’s never going away, too, it can be really tricky to get a flat look over a rounded area….

      OOoooh 1970’s flares! That sounds like fun. I have some jeans around here I made years ago, they have like… 60″ hems on each leg. Lol… Love the big wide legs…

      Oh, well, if you’re ever in the neighborhood just lmk and come have a dip! I never thought I was much of a “pool” person but as the weather has heated up I’ve been really grateful it’s here… It’s salt, too, which is good, chlorine makes me gag…

  7. I don’t know if I am too late to join this bandwagon, but I haven’t worn pants in years(!) because of fitting issues. Been thinking lately that it is time to stop being a wussy and try my hand at pants again. I love the Kate Hepburn silhouette and wonder why I don’t see more of her era of style in the sewing universe…. Either way I am eagerly awaiting this pattern!

    • Thanks so much for your offer to help, I really appreciate it! I love love love that silhouette, too… Was never a fan of skinny jeans, I just don’t see the appeal of that look, maybe it’s just my inner old-lady coming out. I didn’t care much for low-rise when that was the thing, either… ;) Its funny you should say that, I had thought there was a lot of wide-legs out there in the sewing world, too, but when I looked around for non-vintage flat fronts, I didn’t find a whole lot… And the sailor front is a little extra bit of fun. ;)

  8. i filled out the form….interested since I am heavier AND short! I think they could be flattering though, since I love flat front side zip with some fullness (can make a tummy look flatter)..

    • Thanks, Shae! I think the most flattering thing a woman can wear is *anything* that fits properly… Nice and smooth, no creases, no binding, it just looks like it is part of the person like feathers on a duck… ;) It just projects a certain je nais se quoi…

  9. How did I miss the mail about the FBA/FRA Hummingbird? I’ve been yapping about this for months? And there it all is! You clever thing! So excited about these pants!

    • Hey Sj- I don’t know? :) Thank you, though I’m not sure what FRA is? Full Rump Alteration? That’s all I’m coming up with. heheh. Lmk, I’m curious.

  10. Anything you can do to make fitting pants/trousers less intimidating for everyone sewing out there will be fantastic! Good for you. I made my own TNT pants pattern, starting with a pair from the thrift store that fit Ok, and endlessly modifying from there. The results are totally worth every minute, but it’s definitely been a process! I’m actually in the middle of my first really nice pair (with a lining!) right now.
    I think I should also chip in that I’m just not interested in joining facebook, even for a fun cause like this …

    • Yessss! I really want to, that’s the goal. I get so many emails about pants, been helping fit all kinds of pants for a while now, so I thought if I made a pattern, it’d be simpler, more direct…? ;) Oh wow, well done you working hard to achieve the result you want, I love that! Agreed, a good fitting pair of trousers is worth every second it takes to get them just right.

      Ah, yes, I completely understand about FB…. Honestly I’m really not a fan of most of what FB does corporately, and didn’t have an account for a very long time… My husband is a FB-hater, too, and teases me lol. But- but- having tested patterns individually via email, and doing sewing circles on flickr and other places electronically, I have to say that using the FB secret group as a platform for the testing has been fantastic. I like that everyone can see how others’ work comes out, and we can easily comment and bounce ideas around while maintaining privacy (since fitting and measurements can be really sensitive). I hate for a FB account to be a pre-req for testing, but it really does make for an excellent experience all around. :)


Is it kind, useful or interesting? Great!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s