The first two Cake releases were relatively simple garments, well-explained and suitable for beginners. For the Hummingbird release, I wanted to provide a little something extra for intermediate to advanced sewists. This is the Hummingbird Pink view– below the knee length with a “Tailfeather Flounce” inspired by the name of the pattern and also by the practical and pretty skirt insets found on many 1930’s skirts.
Flounce? Or Godet?
Flounces and godets are two ways to add fullness to a straight skirt. Slim cut skirts provide a challenge for mobility- the hemline must be full enough to allow the wearer to walk. Many, many RTW (ready to wear) slim cut skirts have a slit down the back to allow for walking and other motion.
Harriet Pepin was my first drafting teacher, and I often refer to her manual on drafting written in 1940.
I think the Hummingbird Pink inset qualifies as a flounce. And what is a godet, Madame Pepin?
But Madame! You just said that about a flounce, but with different words! I wish I could email her.
At the end of the day, I played it by ear. “Tailfeather Flounce” rings true as it describes the motion of the skirt, too.
The 1930’s style approach to the slim skirt / walking room conundrum is infinitely more interesting than the visually discreet back slit which is so ubiquitous on modern slim cut skirts:
The skirt in this Schiaparelli day-to-evening ensemble features front and back insets. (The longer I stare at that top, the more I want to try it!)
The skirts on this pair of dresses from the era show two separate inset types. The printed chiffon on the right looks to have a cascade of flounced insets.
This skirt has three shaped insets in the front for day wear. What fun!
I think these skirts definitely show godets. I always think of godets as triangular and set into seams, as these appear to be.This is a modern skirt, available on Etsy, featuring godets. I like the soft, sheer fabric overlaying the solid.
The hem edge of the Tailfeather Flounce was shaped to suggest a bird’s tailfeathers. A softly rippling tailfeather is more interesting than a slit, and more fun to sew.
The Tailfeather Flounce is a part of the Hummingbird Top & Skirt pattern, pre-saling now for $14.50 until April 7. RRP $22.
What’s your definition of “flounce” or “godet”? Do you like my tailfeathers?
I’ll be back with more after the holiday weekend! Have a happy Easter, everyone!