The Pavlova Wrap Top is loosely based on this gem of a pattern from the 1950’s. While I changed the darts, the grain, the fabric type and also graded the body and ties to suit various bust and waist measurement combinations, I left a few of the vintage details in place.
One of those details is the lapped seam at the back neckline. This is step 6 from the Pavlova instructions- designed to help guide you through the process to create a cleanly finished garment. I highly suggest using a little fusible webbing to secure the lapped seam. It’s not too tricky to put together as written, and there’s also a mini visual reference on sewingcake.com to show how these steps look when sewn on an actual garment. (Lauren’s Pavlova Top)
Then in the last construction step, the neck binding and the cf of the top are folded over and top-stitched down to create a clean front edge. I recommend using fusible webbing to place the hem for this step. It makes the sewing much simpler, cleaner, and stabilizes the fabric just enough to prevent it rippling. The modern fusible webbing paired with this vintage technique works very well to create a thoroughly wearable garment.
Here you can see the seams for the lapped neck edge. It’s possible to trim and tuck the seam allowance out of the way, but I didn’t here. And check out the pinmark! Don’t worry, it washed out.
I liked lapped seams in general, having discovered them when I began sewing from 1930’s patterns. It’s a neat and clean way to create all kinds of shaped insets and specialized finishes.
I’m curious to know if you’ve sewn much with lapped seams in the past? What was the garment? How did you like it? What era was it from?
(Those pavlova patterns are so. close. to. being. finished!)
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