This length of no-wale stretch cotton corduroy came farm-sitting with me. I have a mini-skirt made of a different color of the same fabric and it’s the *perfect* bottom-weight fabric. It’s heavy, a little plushy, with just enough stretch to hug my body.
And most importantly- it’s pink for this week’s Sew Weekly Challenge. I am 100% determined to make the Sunday night deadline this week if it kills me.
This is my rendering of an idea I had to cut a pair of bootcut pants with seaming detail. I’m fascinated by the use of nap as a design feature, and had the idea to play with the lines and nap, with a few pockets tucked into the seaming. I even started drafting the pattern pieces when I realized I didn’t have an invisible zipper.
No one has an invisible zipper within 45 or so miles. I called around, I asked Carol (who used to live and sew in this area- thanks, Carol!), and eventually I wandered into the nearest town to scope out a knitting shop I heard “might” have regular nylon dress zippers. They did. When I asked at the counter if they had any invisible zippers, the proprietress told me it will be invisible “depending on how you sew it in.”
Right. I paid for the zipper and counted myself lucky to have it. My weird pieced design does not include a fly and I think it would throw off the balance of the seamlines. Neither did I want to do a lapped zipper, nor an exposed zipper if I didn’t have a metal one to work with. Blast.
As they say, back to the drawing board. Or rather, the Pinterest board, where I spent some time staring at this Burda Magazine (December 2009) illustration and reading up about Kayy The Sewing Lawyer’s experience with the pants. She loves them. I especially like the front seaming, and check out the way the back yoke runs into the front “princess” seams. Wicked. We have a winner.
I did not have a zipper- but I had my own pants block and my bootcut leg templates ready to go. I drew in the “princess” lines and a front fly, then cut my pattern along the line. When I cut the fabric, I added the seam allowances to the fabric rather than my pattern. Because I’m kind of lazy.
I cut the pants with the nap running down (which means when I “pet” downwards along my pants leg, it feels smooth. This gives a richer color than when the nap runs “up”). I wasn’t game to make a mess of my lovely fabric in case the contrast nap idea turned out to be a bad one.
Once I carved out the back yoke (making sure it would meet the top of my front princess seam), I decided to fold out the dart. First, I cut along one of the dart legs, through the entire pattern piece.
When I laid the back yoke pattern piece above the lower back pants piece, you can see where the dart moved! It’s not on the yoke anymore, but in the seamline. It’s neater. I haven’t decided if I need back pockets, I’ll see what happens when I get into the sewing.
What do you think? Any pocket advice? Do you like the circular pocket with the curved seaming, or is it too much? And what about that other design, would it make a cool pair of jeans in a month or two?