My bestie Enid came over the other day and brought with her a glorious stack of recent Burdas. Then she left them with me. Enid’s the best. I flipped through the lot and #127 from October 2011 caught my eye:
They feature what may be the laziest welt pockets ever. Really. No pocket bag or facings, and you only have to carefully stitch one short end because the other is caught in the side seam. Further, if you screw up the welt- no problem. Toss out the relatively small pocket patch and try again. It’s low-risk and looks kind of cool. I like that.
My last hurdle to clear before I open up the Pants Blocks service is creating a very clear step by step pictutorial about what to do with your block after it’s perfect. That is, how to use it effectively as an alteration tool. So far, the testers have picked up the challenge eagerly and done well, but I hesitate to open the service without a crystal clear pictutorial or video to illustrate my points. I’m also very poor; I have to make sure my samples for the blog also fit into my wardrobe. Other than that, the pants blocks service has a big green light, I’m amazed at the results from most of my testers. Well done, ladies! (If I owe you an email please remind me, even rudely, I don’t care but my daughter basically deleted my inbox last week and I’m still reeling. She’ll never touch my phone again.)
I have a cute pattern, I have some cute denim and a pants block that fits me well. Surely I can combine them to make a great pair of jeans…
Today I sat down and spent some time sample sewing. It doesn’t take long but I find it helps me plan my sewing more effectively when I know exactly what needles, threads and stabilizers to use. Can you spot the funny stitches above? I stitched the second from the bottom line using a “default” length stitch (2.2) and the rest using a longer top-stitch (3.0). I can’t remember where I picked this up, but to my eye it always makes a big difference. I also used a denim needle, though the denim has so much lycra I did consider using a blue tip or stretch needle. The denim needles seem to work fine so I’ll stick to them. Gray denim thread tones in with the pearl snaps and is the least offensive to the eye while still giving that “jeans stitching” look.
Both PR reviewers complained that the welt pockets gape and ultimately left them off which is most unhelpful to me. I’m sure front welt pockets on any pants gape on everyone except those of us who have the very flattest tummies (Lucky you! Go sew more welts!). I don’t have a flat tummy, so I decided to add a cool decorative tab with a pearl snap to prevent gappage. I sketched the tab on the pocket pattern piece and didn’t hate it so I made a “tab” pattern piece, added seam allowances, cut it out, and stitched it into the pocket:
I cut the pocket patch perpendicular to the jeans grain. This denim has a very pronounced slub, so I made use of it. The welt is bias, and the tab is the same grain as the pants body. I also fused armoweft to the entire patch pocket piece for stability. This is a streeeeeetchy piece of denim.
Now, I have several questions I will leave to your collective wisdom-
1- The back of these pants is boring. My original idea for this denim included a double back yoke for fun. Would you like to see that? Would it look silly? I do hope the double yoke wins your favor.
2- What do you think of these pinks for Megan’s dress? I plan to make the trip to The Fabric Store this week because I’m positive they’ll have candy pink sateen (please please please!), but what do you think about these colors?
I’m on the fence. I can carry both colors, I don’t hate them but they don’t have the “pop” of the paler pink. I think sateen is a good choice for this dress, by the way, and I’ll stick to that. Commentator “Scramble” came out of the woodwork with a solid idea- carefully cut the pieces on the straight of grain, carefully sew and trim them, then press the seam open and face with a lighter fabric. I think that’s what I’ll do because it worked out so well on my hastily cut sample.