I started sewing this unlined jacket in a hemp-silk crepe satin for the vintage pattern sewalong last January. I carefully altered the pattern using another pattern that fit well. Then I obsessed over engineering the patch pockets so they would withstand hard wear and summer conditions. Finally, I played with several types of saddle stitching to secure the design details. All in the course of two weeks. Then I stopped. I just did, we ran out of summer before I found buttons I liked. I made another version of the same pattern in corduroy for winter, which became my favorite jacket ever.
Ta-da! Ok, I admit I’ve actually been wearing it for the past two months or so, sans buttons. It’s even been through the washing machine once. My skirt isn’t wrinkled, by the way, that’s genteel rumpling…
I like the way the back pleat “settled in.” I was careful to stitch each dart, tuck and pleat into place so I could easily launder the jacket and the details would retain their integrity. It works well.
Here’s a peek at the inside construction. The satin side of the fabric is on the inside, where it slips against my clothes and skin. The rough, textured crepe side faces out. The texture repels soiling. I wanted this jacket to be tough above all other considerations, and easy to launder. I used haircloth interfacing, bound all the edges with pink and blue satin bias binding, sewed the waist seam “inside out,” then covered it with a belt feature.
I stitched the collar “stand” so the long-wearing collar would stand up well to abuse and because the very old pattern told me to. I thought it sounded reasonable. I plan to do another collar like this, because it is AWESOME; I’ll document the process when I do.
I wore my jacket this morning while I helped out on my husband’s parent’s farm. This is a medicine gun, attached to a medicine pack slung over my shoulder. We were worming a paddock of sheep and goats.
I used four buttons on the pockets from a dead 30’s blouse I made pre-blog. My brain tells me they’re tacky, but I love them and I’m delighted they’re a part of my wardrobe again. I finished the front belt with a trouser loop and bar. Honestly, this jacket doesn’t need buttons down the front.
My source for hemp-silk is in Perth- Margaret River Hemp Company. It’s truly delicious fabric, though a trifle “wiggly” to work with. They have excellent customer service.
Maybe it’s the cool, cloudy, unseasonable weather, but the whole world looks to me like it’s erupting into brilliant Christmas colors. Everywhere I look, I see vibrant reds and greens. The banner now is a “flame tree” at the foot of the orange orchard on the farm. I hope you don’t mind me sharing such non-tangible inspiration; I plan to keep up the red and green photos through the holidays. It’s my small way to acknowledge Christmas.