One of the biggest hurdles to sewing and drafting your own patterns is the lack of instructions, cutting layouts, fabric yardages (meterages), and notions lists one relies on when working with commercial patterns. Many sewists I know have their own sewing “styles” and don’t bother much with pattern instructions.
I like to start with stabilizing- necklines, shoulders, arm curves, etc. This time I used a wide, sturdy fusible knit. It is light enough to allow the fabric to drape, but will provide a stable support for the shoulder buttons and buttonholes.
To keep the line of stitching straight, I aligned the folded edge of the pleat with a mark on my throat plate and stitched rather than relying on my shaky chalk line. Once I reached the “pleat” area, I broke the thread and basted the pleat closed.
Then I stitched the inside folded edge of the pleat on each side to keep the pleat sharp while wearing. I top-stitched the back seam above the pleat to keep the fabric where I pressed it. Check out my post on perfectionism for a similar approach to a back pleat on a jacket.
Turn and press, no more time to sew today!
Do you usually put garments together in a certain way, regardless of the pattern instructions? Do you carefully read each pattern thrice before starting a project? Somewhere in between?
Many, many thanks to Amy for helping me revive my blogspot blog and set up a re-direct. I do apologize for any trouble that caused! If you’re looking for a particular post, the search is located in the top right corner. I haven’t gotten rid of anything.
Tomorrow, I’ll announce the winners of the giveaway!