I Want This Jacket

Robin goes to the first day of her “big girl” job.

WANT.  The inverted Hong Kong finish on the CB seam first caught my eye.   As I rewatched in slow motion, other details sufaced.  Someone cut that jacket on both shoulder and armhole princess lines. The seams look felled. I like the pleated back peplum.

But wait, there’s more!  The back inset allows the strong windowpane stripe to wrap around her body smoothly.  Very cool.

Then I saw the Hong Kong seamed panel on the side fronts.


I began to scratch out a line drawing to plan my drafting.

Once I figured out the lines, I began to ponder how it should go together- also how best to balance and place the seams.

I listed necessary materials, equipment, skills, research, questions. I need to leaf through Roberta Carr and I want to refresh my memory over at pattern~scissors~cloth.

Material?  Well, I fear this charcoal tropical wool is not destined to be a Moderne dress but a suit.  I may manage a skirt and trousers for the jacket from this fabric.  I plan to underline the suit with silk organza and fell most of the seams.  I think it will lend gentle structure to the jacket. Pockets?

I hadn’t thought to put a suit into my Summer 2011 wardrobe (I thought I would have no time for it!), but now I can.  And must.  I need a “big girl” suit like Robin!


  1. It’s gorgeous! I really love the details of the external Hong Kong seams. I think for me, I’d love to play around with some fun colours or unexpected patterns (tiny little flowers in red/pink and turquoise pop to my mind…but I’m the girl who looks for an excuse to add pink and turquoise to everything).

    I really look forward to seeing how it turns out.

  2. I’m honestly not a huge fan of the HK seams on the outside (but that’s me, and maybe I’d like it better if it weren’t white), but the structuring of the jacket and all the little details and seams look interesting (and very hard to do). I love the shape of the collar, and the extra long buttonholes and extra big buttons! Don’t know how you’re going to do it, but it’ll be interesting to watch you work it out. Good luck!

  3. Nice! I like the external HK seam finish because it is something unique. I’m surprised it is white in the image – I would have picked a different colour I think, but with your good sense and skills I think you will do an amazing job of this. I am really looking forward to seeing your project unfold. As for handstitching the whole project – my hat goes off to you. I honestly don’t think I could manage an entirely hand-stitched garment.

  4. What a treat to watch you do this! I love hand stitching too but have little time for it now. I made my own clothes by hand in college, before I found out there was a sewing machine in my dorm for anyone to borrow (hooray for the good old days at the U of California…). My hand stitched buttonholes and careful hand stretch stitching on knits held up just as well as machine ones, and I felt so elegant when I wore them. One of the things I still love about sewing is the peaceful time of the actual sewing, even though I don’t have as many clothes as if I bought everything cheap, but the ones I have are very nice and speak to the world that I am an individual, not a Kmart product. Good luck with this challenging project. I hope someday to learn to draft as well as you do. Kristina in central Ohio

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