Finally Finished Object: Blue Cord Arches Skirt

I finished this several weeks ago, it was one of many neglected projects which required little more than a zipper and a hem.  This was my SSS photo for today; I’m not sure if the top and the skirt go together-  this is me trying to break out of my Black and White Habit.

I saw this skirt in Harriet Pepin’s book and fell head over heels- love at first sight.  I find myself drawn to designs with strong architectural lines, it pleases me to bend the lines around my curves.  I decided this skirt should be straight (or even pegged) rather than a-line, and thought two godets inserted into the back seams would allow for freedom of movement.  I used the skirt block I drafted last February as the base.

That was way back when the Demilitarized Jacket was on the work table.  I thought to make a suit.  After these pictures, I decided I liked each piece separately, never together.  Head to toe blue corduroy?  Doubtful at best.

(during staycations, my sewing takes over the entire house and my couch becomes a tripod…I eat over the sink and take naps at odd hours….)

Then I lost track of what I should do with it.  Line it?  With what?  Face it?  How?  How do I insert a zipper into what amounts to a deep side waist dart?  At sea, I put it aside.

I kept her out in plain sight so she could stare me down with silent accusation until I finished her.  I find that technique works well for forcing me to face my projects ortoss them.

Eventually, I sucked it up and stuck the zipper into the dart.  It wasn’t hard.  It was so not hard I don’t know how to tell you about it.  I left a little space at the bottom of the dart for my seam and stitched it in.  I faced it with the same candy-stripe I used for my jacket lining, and inserted thick black piping in the seam to keep the facing from rolling to the outside.

Back godets.  They work really well for movement, and I rather like them.

I can see in the photo I have a little tum, but I’m actively choosing to think of it as sexy and not obsess.  I like this skirt.  Can you see how I cut the side panels on the crosswise grain, so as to have competing textures at the seamline?



  1. I do like those lines that go around the hip. I'm a fan of dark or navy blue. I think blue goes with everything. I imagine this will be a very useful skirt!

  2. Good morning Steph. So glad you were able to finish this skirt. It is really nice and fits you beautifully. It has the line of a slim skirt but the godet's make it very wearable. Contrasting the wale of the fabric in the side panels is a great design feature. Thanks for sharing. -how lucky you are to sew for a living-I answered your little poll, I consider myself vintage now, so any reference to "Vintage" is already filtered through my own experience :)

  3. I love the ensemble. It totally works! I love that you drafted it too. I'm trying to learn pattern drafting but, alas, the only sewing classes I've been able to find where I live quilting and kid's crafts. :( So I've been using online tutorials and a pattern drafting book and there have been no major mishaps so far!

  4. Corduroy! I recognized the colour right away, although that's probably because I've just re-read every post you made on your Demiliterized Jacket. :D I really like the shaping of this skirt. The seamlines are really shown off by the nap of the fabric. I don't think it's a bad thing that you've mentioned the class. I'd love to take a class like that, and I know I'd be grateful for the information if I were there. Like Stephanie Lynn, there just aren't a lot of options where I love (not that I've found, that is), so any information shared is good.

  5. I like the interesting seaming and the godets – and, of course, the corduroy.I'm intrigued by the pattern drafter and am curious how/if it's different from other blocks or slopers (such as in Metric Pattern Cutting or the Japanese pattern magazines).

  6. Hey- What if I found a way to run mini-drafting classes online? Would that be interesting? I think the logistics on my end would be fairly simple… Joy- it uses 7 measurements. 7. Whenever I did drafting in the past, the measuring was my main problem. It only takes three measurements to make near-perfect pants drafts… All 20 odd pants drafts I've made from this fit the wearer, often with no tweaking at all.

  7. I haven't totally jumped into pattern drafting yet. I usually alter something else which can lead to many frustrating hours of revisions. Seeing your results certainly tempts me. I have seen other online classes that cost several hundred dollars. Anyway, that skirt is really clever and it fits you perfectly. Oh and the blouse, I do love that too.

  8. Thanks. :)I dunno, I'd probably go the low-rent, good-natured DIY video way… Less overhead… Teaching dressmaking is how I make my living, but I want to pass on the skills I've acquired to anyone who wants it.. Let me think about it for a while…

  9. I love, love this length of skirt. Looks amazing on you. I always go for very drapey skirts (and clothes) but am considering drafting a nicely tailored one for myself. Mini drafting classes sound fun!

  10. I may be interested in an online mini-drafting course, depending on the timing. It's something I'm considering moving towards, as I'm starting to see a lot of simularities between patterns. It'd be nice to have a basic block to work from, instead of futzing with new patterns every time. Plus it must be incredibly freeing to not be tied down to available patterns.There's a book a lady at the fabric store recommended to me, called Metric Pattern Cutting. Have you heard of it?

  11. No, I haven't heard of that one….I hear you about the futzing part. And the occasional nasty surprise that something isn't going to fit and never will…

  12. Ooh, I love that skirt! I have some of my blue pinwhale corduroy left over and have been thinking about bottoms, but yeah, probably not to wear with my corduroy jacket.I love the seaming, and also the combination of the godets and the pegged shape—I will have to try that in a heavier fabric. I do terrible things to pencil skirts, so I really need the extra range of motion the godets provide.

  13. steph remember the girl bruce willis is with in pulp fiction? she wants a "pot" as she calls it :-)@heather, that'd be winifrid aldrich's series of books. i did a course of pattern drafting and that was the book that my teacher recommended. i find it good as a reference, especially for collars and manipulating darts and stuff but i probably wouldn't find it as helpful/easy to use if i hadn't already got a grasp of drafting first hand in the classes. you make your pattern based on the measurements that you take rather than starting with a block and then altering back to you if that makes sense.

  14. Hi, are you able to publish the full post in your feed? I prefer to read blogs in a reader and must click on to your blog to read every post. The bloggers who do this get read less, at least by me.

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