Drafting the Jumper- For the Pattern Geeks

I’d like to thank everyone who offered opinions on the jumper draft.  Your ideas and the pattern illustrations from my previous post danced in my mind, blending together in endless combinations until I had to say “enough!”  I think you all were right about a collar in cord on the jumper, and about the importance of keeping it simple overall.  While several of you leaned towards a square neckline (I did myself), Mrs C wisely suggested a deep scoop.  The Wholesome Dress remains my favorite day dress ever, so I thought to mimic the circular scooped neckline on that dress.  Side note- the zipper on that dress recently overshot the zipper stop as I put her on, so I added her to the mending pile.  I added a little notch to the CB neckline because I like back interest.

I was all set to make a half-circle skirt with the seams in the CF and CB for a chevron effect, but I had to thumb through my Pepin to hear her ideas on that cut.  I became distracted by her description of this eight gore draft:

“In the foregoing skirt designs the movement was added equally on each side of the seams to the adjacent sections.  This resulted in producing a ripple upon which the seam fell on top.  In this design you will learn a way of distributing the movement in such manner as to make the seam fall down straight and be partially hidden by the ripple at the hemline.  In this design, too, the degree of sweep has been increased towards the back for greater interest.”

Mmmmm… Ripples, straight hidden seams, and increased back sweep.  I remembered the many comments in favor of gores and decided to make it happen.  The diagram looks rather scary and awkward, but this time I made myself just try it.  It’s not so hard.  I filled in each dot and line as she prescribed, and found I had a template resembling that crazy thing in the top left corner of the page.  Then I laid some poly trace on top and wrested each gore from that mess of lines, and added seam allowances.  It felt like I made my own Burda pattern sheet, kind of familiar and not as hard as it looks.

I made front and back facings all in one with the arms, I hate flippity facings.  I’d appreciate any constructive pattern criticism, I’m self-taught and usually pick up nuances the hard way.  I think I might scoop out the lower portion of the circle, it looks a little flat here.  I’d like to use hook and eye tape to close the CF, as I intend this to be boned and closely fitted.  Caveats?

Several of the pattern illustrations feature large pockets built into the gores of the skirt.  I decided to take this tack, despite the tempting triple pocket feature.  Jeanna and others were right- it’s too heavy for this fabric and not profoundly utilitarian.  I carved out the appropriate section from the to of the side front gore, and made a rounded pocket opening and bottom.


Overall, it should look something like this.  I should practice my drawing skills, but you can see the general idea I have in mind.  The gored skirt should be fairly full around the hem, 75″, but closely fitted around my hips.  I used my golden ratios to determine bodice and skirt length because it was the simplest method at hand.

What do we think?  I need to refine this a little bit, and then cut it later this week.  Thanks for bearing with me as I slow down on my sewing and blogging.

I just discovered a new to me blog- WW2: A Civilian in the Second World War.  It’s a war diary someone found, and they post each entry 70 years to the day after the original entry.  Neat!


3 comments

  1. Hurray! The hardest part of a project is making all the initial design decisions, I find. Once that big headache is over, you can enjoy the engineering puzzles. Looks as if you have a delicious experience awaiting you. Enjoy the game.

  2. Pingback: Finished Object: Twisty Pinny « 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World


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