This housecoat is dated 1939, both the copyright and what looks like a shop stamp on the inner flap. I think the previous seamstress made the view with short sleeves and a front zipper. I’m making long sleeves with buttons in purple cotton flannelette.
Despite the fact it’s a size smaller than I usually work from at size 14 (32″ bust), the regular pattern fits over my basic block as if I’d drafted it myself. Weird. It’s intended for an ungirdled 27″ waist, so has about 2 1/2″ of ease built into it.
I decided not to alter the pattern, but cut generous side seams. I’m sick of sewing “the right way” and decided to slap this together as quickly as possible.
Yes, using the original paper pattern. I laid the pieces on my extra wide (100″) wide flannelette.
Then rough-cut and took the pieces to my cutting table, where I weighted and cut.
Velvet has its own grainline for the floor-length circle skirt.
Net cut as gathered sleeve cap support.
On a whim, I trimmed the edges of the pockets with red binding. I went nuts binding the collar, the hem, and trimming the cuffs in red. I like the brilliant scarlet against gray-purple. It’s solidly slapdash- white overlocking thread and an incredibly inappropriate knit interfacing for the front facings. Let’s say I’ll never wear this inside out.
I haven’t blogged in a while, mostly due to pocket dysmorphia:
We pinned, re-pinned and pinned again to balance the top pockets. In the end, I matched up the edges of the two front pieces and pinned them together to check the pocket positioning. I had to move one of them up 1/4″ until it was completely even. Pinned, sewed, and look at it. It’s not so pronounced in real life, in fact he’s been wearing the jacket all this week. I know I should rip it out and re-position.