Does that make it androgynous or just weird?
It’s almost finished! If I could find the other pleated pocket and flap, we’d be in business. How does that happen? I make a garment in a reasonable amount of time, carefully keeping my pattern pieces together. Every piece of fabric passes through my hands repeatedly, becoming more a jacket each time yet I manage to lose a single pocket. I searched, now I’m leaving it up to the sewing gods. These things turn up, but progress is stalled.
I started drafting without realizing what I’d taken on. I used the original pattern’s pocket details and eventually sort of Franken-patterned a collar. I started cutting one night after putting my daughter to bed, telling myself I’d only cut the main parts of the jacket. I looked up at 1am and registered horror at the lateness of the hour. I hurriedly slapped the last pieces down on the fabric, cut it out, and put everything together to sew later. I only realized I cut both pocket and flap upside down after about two hours of painstaking favoring and trimming the lined pockets. I was pissed. Don’t cut napped fabrics when you need a nap!
I discovered that linen works well for a favored facing like a pocket flap. It readily melded to the outside fabric as I stitched, and snapped back into shape when I steamed it flat. Very nice indeed.
I didn’t get a picture, but the original back yoke was about 3″ longer than this. Horrible, completely out of proportion. I only realized after I sewed it together. I cut off the extra length and used the mid back piece to cut my new bellows pockets- this time with the nap running the right way. I had to buy a little more fabric for the new mid-back piece. As mistakes go, it wasn’t so bad and easily fixed. At least I didn’t light it on fire or something.
Then more pocket problems- this isn’t my fault! I used the pattern’s pockets, but for some reason the flaps come out nearly an inch wider than the pockets. That’s a head-scratcher, I’ll just sew the flaps a little narrower. See? I had two of those pockets once. The other one will turn up, I know it will.
The buttons came in today, I couldn’t resist sewing a few to see how they look. They smell and taste like pennies, they’re even about the same size. Yep, I tasted them. I couldn’t help myself. I suppose they must be mostly copper. I figure I’ll use five on the front and nix the belt, the jackets of the time go both ways. Luckily, the jacket fits him ok without any changes.
This time I used Sherry’s collar tutorial without messing it up, though I did add in the step where I stitch along the roll line at the back. It helps create a nice crease along the collar stand.
I steamed it like an old-school tailor, I like the shape it builds into the collar and couldn’t help myself. Other than that, I stuck to the instructions. They were fantastic instructions, and his jacket feels much less bulky at the collar than mine.