When my husband asked me for a boy version of my WW2 Jacket, I immediately said “Of course, no problem, anything you want.” That’s a way I show love. Through hard work and bluster. I’m not always good at the affection stuff, but I’ll work my ass off to show I care when given the chance.
Well. Turns out drafting a block for his body was a little trickier than anticipated, because Maria Martin’s template is calibrated to accommodate female geometry (boobs). For added fun, I decided to put his block together the morning before he left to go on a ten-day ecological field excursion up north.
On the whole, I considered it good enough to work with for a semi-fitted casual jacket. My hurried sewing caused the funny business at the front sleeve. The drafter worked perfectly on his hard to fit back. I used a well-loved shirt pattern to get an idea for the front. It’s enough to work with, though the lack of a front dart does bother me slightly.
Then I thought I’d tweak the front pieces a little, make a new sleeve and get started.
Not so fast….
I took the “muslin” apart, traced the edges, and squared off the bottom edge at the length we decided on. Then I marked things like the waistline, etc.
Here’s the back, with the exterior and lining seamlines sketched out. The back was easy. I traced off each pre-marked section, added pleats where desired, and drew in the seamlines.
I pinned the new back pattern pieces and compared them to each other and to the “block.” No problems.
Lila was unusually tolerant of my drafting activities, content to scribble on a copy of the pattern pieces I printed so I could write notes and keep track of the 47-odd pieces that make up the jacket.
The sleeve was similarly straight-forward. I threw my own sleeve pattern on top to get an idea of dart placement. I know this isn’t the best way to make it, but I think it should work fine.
The front gave me a little grief. His chest is flatter than mine, with a less defined waist and taller shoulders. Men have such simpler geometry. I wasn’t sure if I marked the front lapel nicely, but the more I played with the CF, the overlap, the roll line and the lapel, the more confident I felt. My “muslin” had no waist seam, and I very nearly made it straight. Then I remembered the Parthenon- it appears to have straight lines though it’s made of curves. So I curved the front waistline much like this diagram:
Then I lost the plot while trying to create a new collar. I knew my collar won’t work on his jacket for two reasons- 1) Bigger neckline and 2) The lapels are proportionately larger on his jacket than mine. Just a bit, but they are and if I just lengthened the original collar piece, it would look goofy.
Dear me. I’ll sleep on it, often problems resolve themselves while I sleep. Sometimes that’s from my own brain, and often it’s because a pattern junkie has read my post and replied to it while I’m snoozing. Let me know if you can see what I’m doing wrong. I dug around and found plenty of confusing websites devoted to collar drafting, and followed my Harriet Pepin. I used the collar page.
I’ll use the same pocket and flap pieces from my jacket pattern, but that’s it. I ended up re-drawing everything else.
I used Sherry’s instructions for prepping the shell, the facings and lining. Her instructions for the pattern are amazing, I figure doing them twice in succession will help cement it in my mind. I’d like to have the exterior, the lining, and the pockets assembled by the time he gets home. I dare not go further. Placement for the breast pockets will be a shot in the dark at best without him, and the body may need tweaking.
Now I beg for your expert opinions. I like the camo lining; it’s not really on display in the finished jacket. I think husband found it a little flashy and kitsch and longingly asked if I could use a plain. I could, and use the camo for piping and pocket lining. Of course it’s kitsch. I don’t dispute that. It’s also kind of funny, but it’s his jacket after all. Should I use a plain lining?
Do you like the buttons? They’re brass, shanked, and pretty cool. The only slight problem is they’re 3/4″ and I preferred 1″. Beggars can’t be choosers, but do you think that’s too small? What if I used another button or two on the front closure?
I promise no more jacket posts for a few days at least.
Finally, what ridiculously nutty things have you done to impress a boy you like?