(Handsewing the lining in the park. Thoroughly enjoyable.)
Like Sherry, I sewed the wrong collar to my facings. It happens. I had the opportunity to try out a funny little gadget a student of mine gave me. Thank you Kathryn! I believe they are intended to tweeze eyebrows, but I noticed Kath using them to pull threads from her unpicking in class and I was transfixed.
The next class, she brought me one of my very own! This worked especially well because corduroy has a nap so it’s hard to rid the seam of the bits of thread without pulling on the nap. To the fabric’s credit, it shed very little nap as I sewed and unpicked.
I couldn’t make the top collar fit properly on the facing because I already trimmed and notched that seam. I decided to make it up as I went, since I’ve already made this jacket and many other collars before. I’ll use Sherry’s technique on the next jacket I make, I can see how it would drastically reduce bulk. This time, I sewed the collars together along the outer edges, leaving the neck free.
I couldn’t settle into my sewing, so I re-covered my ironing board. I cut off a piece of fabric a little bigger than the board and tucked the raw edges under the old cover. Then I pinned it in place. It’s not a swish job, but it’s how I re-cover the boards at work which are used by hundreds of people a week and need frequent changing. The bright colors make me grin like an idiot.
Stitched, trimmed, turned and pressed. If you click on it, you can actually see the turn of cloth around the edges.
Then I slapped the collar in as quickly as possible. Then I unpicked a few sections. Then I re-sewed them. Then I unpicked one more section. Then I re-sewed that. I figure if 80% of a tough seam is good, I’m not unpicking the whole thing.
Lapels and fronts. No problems. Trimmed and turned.
I used to genuinely fear facing a bound buttonhole, but it’s not so bad now. I pressed the facing aggressively, and the fabric obligingly outlined the buttonholes underneath. No need for marking! The Armoweft interfacing is a little messy, I had to make careful use of a press cloth as I blockfused, but here it became an asset as the front and the facing sort of fused together.
Best method I’ve used for facing these puppies: cut an X from corner to corner, turn the edges under, fell stitch. Be- yoo- tiful. I’m really proud of the results.
Invisible Lining Pocket, a la K.King. I’ve wanted to use this ever since I stumbled across the technique in Cool Couture, his instructions are crystal clear with gorgeous results. I tacked the bottom of the pocket to a seam and stayed the top corner. I’m not sure why Google posted the full instructions….
I made a weeny sleeve head from some wool batting I had lying around and zig-zagged it to the sleeve seam allowance. Up to this point, I had no thought of a shoulder pad. I tried it with and without, and decided to forgo it this time.
Pleated sleeve head with padding. I was on a roll so I kept going, I knew I’d need to hand-sew the lining for the sake of the invisible pocket. I knew the sewalong and I had to part ways.
For the record, this is not the way to bag out sleeves. Had it not been 10 o’clock at night I would not have done it that way. I have a rule- 3 stupid mistakes and it’s time to put the work down. I violated that rule and paid the price with my seam ripper. I finally made the sleeves bag properly and set to work on the hem. When I reached the front facing hem corner, I couldn’t make my lining meet the jacket. I couldn’t make the back facing meet the top of the back lining, either. I couldn’t think straight and struggled with it for some time before forcing myself to go to bed. I tossed and turned all night, playing the problem over in my head.
After lunch, I got out the exterior front and lining patterns and laid them on top of each other. Somehow I cut the bottom front lining piece just a little funny, like I forgot some of the seam allowance. Note to future self- always double check by laying the lining pattern on top of the exterior. I managed to play with the seam a little and it fit.
Thread in one pocket, scissors in the other.
I really, really enjoy hand-sewing. Especially on a breezy
spring autumn day in the park, just a hint of freshness in the air with the sun playing hide-and-seek. Plenty of natural light, and I got an approving nod from a little old lady sitting nearby. She smiled at me and everything, so I know she wasn’t just nodding off in the pleasant atmosphere. Lila took some photos, every one she took was decent but only two made the cut.
The pocket, another hidden one. I’m ridiculously pleased with it. Tanit-Isis, please note the piped facing with pocket. Ahem.
Remember the out of control pockets? I used a technique I saw on some military jackets from the era and tacked down the corners. Problem solved.
I need to stitch a few more inches of lining, shank the buttons, and give the whole thing a thorough pressing/steaming/brushing. I’ll probably get finished pictures tomorrow!
By the way, when I do a photo-heavy post like this, does it take forever to load? I’m never sure if photos are good or irritating because they slow down loading times.