De-Militarized Jacket: Prep, Prep, Prep

This is the second photo-thought-dump in two days, with two biggish projects running concurrently I need to keep notes.  I’m making this Advance 2960 jacket for Sherry’s RTW Sewalong, I finished all the assignments to date except cutting the block-fused pieces. 

I want to use this buckle, self-fabric belt.  Poly-cotton satin stripe, 1m by 60″ wide fit all my pieces.  I decided to cut lining for the big pouch pockets from the stripe.  The lining reminds me of candy, I couldn’t be happier with my choice.  (It was that or the fluffy cloud print, a win-win really.)

Layout of all the block-fused pieces.   I need this for later.

I was stingy with the cutting, these are my scraps.  Aussie flag playing card for scale.  I have enough corduroy left for a pegged deco skirt with a back (or maybe front) kick flounce thanks to my scroogy cutting.  More on that later.

I used Armoweft because Sherry did.  It’s a novelty to be taught rather than teach, so I’m copying her as slavishly as possible.  This interfacing needs a presscloth- some of the resin bleeds through the interfacing.  It reminds me of light chain mail, if mail were made of rayon.  Check out the roll it makes with my cord.  When I laid this out and placed my press cloth to begin fusing, I felt like I faced a monumental task but it turned out to be fairly quick.   I thought to cover the ironing board with corduroy, to lay the block-fused section face down on it to protect the nap.  Testing showed me I couldn’t flatten the nap on this cord with any amount of steam or heat, it would scorch first.

Janet!  Janet!  Wide-wale corduroy welts work without shaving!  Huzzah!

I’m having trouble with the findings.  I want a metal button with a shank which comes in at least two different diameters.  I would prefer a dull pewter finish, and I would like a 3/4″-1″ size for the larger button.  To date, the silly pirate button comes closest to fulfilling those criteria.

My theme for this jacket is purely reactionary to our turbulent times- a demilitarized jacket.  It’s modeled on a WW2 military cut, but I’m using non-military type materials and trimmings.  The blue plastic buttons fit this theme, I may use them despite the words “plastic” and “shankless.”  The white metal buttons caught my eye the other day, I like to think they would match well with an old belt buckle I want to eventually recycle. 

I’m heading out with a like-minded sewist to discover exactly the perfect buttons on Thursday.  We’ll see.


  1. I'll be watching the progress on this closely. I have never block-fused corduroy and want to see how it goes. Armoweft is great stuff, but it does take time to fuse and is messy, as you have noticed. Your jacket will be great. Terrific colour.

  2. Oh man, buttons are hard. I think I stress out more about button choices than I do fabric choices – and I've been known to spend hours trying to pick out the perfect fabric. :) Also, beautiful welt pocket! That's a technique I need to learn, because they are just so clean and professional looking.

  3. I love those retro fashions – from a world when women had tiny waists….not that I have one myself, three kids saw to that…but they were glamorous, they required petticoats, they were swishy and swirly, and made of all those beautiful old fabric – you wore stocking and heels (I would have worn glamorous flats)….Your sewing skills are very impressive…more power to you.

  4. Kathy- I usually make unlined jackets, or I use traditional tailoring techniques- hand-pad stitching. I actually enjoy pad-stitching… I haven't underlined anything. The idea behind block fusing is that I cut out the pieces once rather than twice, and with greater accuracy. Thanks, Julie. This cord is a dream to work with, I'm really tempted to go back to Spotlight (yes Spotlight!) to get some more in different colors because it's so tough and easy to handle. Cord can be a headache.LizaJane- I like them, too, but too many angsty Hot-Topic shopping teenagers have ruined the Jolly Roger for me.Heather- I use the Kenneth King method from Cool Couture, it's an exceptional technical book. Very clear. This is the first welt I made without having to carefully follow the instructions, it's a good feeling.Mrs Dibble- From my readings of lady's mags of the day and photo observations, I think the tiny waist thing is kind of a fantasy. There were plenty of "normal" to large sized women. The tiny waists then as now were mostly the property of hot young things who hadn't been married off and Hollywood starlets. I appreciate what you're saying, though. I always loved this era and one day decided I was going to dress to please myself. I haven't looked back.

  5. Pingback: Hard Yakka: Welts, Bound Buttonholes, and Balancing Flaps « 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World

  6. Pingback: Moderne: We have sleeves! « 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World

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