Moderne Update: Bodice

This is notes to self, I can’t write much or I’ll lose sewing time…

Binder Foot and black cotton bias tape to bind the edges of the front facing.  It takes a little getting used to, but it’s worth learning.

I like to use a decorative stitch to attach the binding because it’s tough and pretty.

3.0 stitch length, 5.5 needle position, 50 wt silk-finish mercerized cotton topstitching thread.

The bound buttonholes took most of last week.

I remembered bound buttonholes take time- much more time than machine worked buttonholes.  I know they’re “purer” in a way, and as much as I like them I think I’ll still file them under “sometimes” techniques.

That said, I’m enjoying the color effect they create.  I think I may stitch an invisible zip down the front to join the skirt yoke to allow for ease of dressing. 

Addendum- I thought about it and I’ll have to use a separating zip down the CF.  If I can find a separating dress zip, that’s the way I’ll go. 


  1. "they're "purer" in a way" Ummm, In my mind they are tailored. If hand stitched, they are couture. They are my first choice for coats, because of the thickness of fabrics and I think they will be more durable. But in this case, your bound buttonholes, are an absolutely stunning, decorative touch. You'll always be proud, and rightly so, that you spent the week to make them perfect.

  2. I really like the colours you chose. The buttonholes and buttons shows the contrast off well.Also, I'm really enjoying your progress posts on this project. Do you find it keeps you motivated on such a detailed and time consuming project?

  3. Thanks for the kind words, ladies.Heather, it does help me keep track of longer projects, especially lately. I haven't had much more time than half an hour here and there, so I feel like I'm making little progress. Posts like this show me I'm actually moving forward.I think the sleeves will need to have worked buttonholes. I'm not excited by the thought of 4 tiny bound buttonholes….

  4. As always, I am completely overwhelmed at how much you think through the analytical aspects of your sewing – which thread, the stitch length, all that stuff. I sit down, run a few bits through the machine, pick what I like, and go, without ever bothering to note it down!And, as always, it looks absolutely gorgeous.

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