Most of the people in my life sew. I mean, they seriously sew. And quilt. And embroider. They taught me to sew “samples” of stitches and thread weights as well as any specialized techniques in a project before I start sewing a new garment. The habit sticks.
I tested a few stitches for the triple top-stitching details on Moderne. I happened to have a 50-wt top-stitching thread which matched the silk I’m using for the buttons and front pleat. The thicker stitches, closely spaced look bold while I’m looking for subtle. I’m already using a “contrast” thread, so the single stitches look softer.
I don’t know if I have enough of the first color, so I picked up another spool of the same weight mercerized cotton, the closest shade I could find (it’s another brand, but I think it will be ok). I plan to use those enormous buttons for the front, and regular sized ones for the cufflink type buttons.
I think the top looks pinker, but doubt it would keep me up at night. This may be the first bound buttonhole I’ve made in a year.
The back. I often have trouble with those, this is the best I’ve ever accomplished. I use the Kenneth King method from Cool Couture. The lips are interfaced with a ribbon, I find welt pockets made this way stand up well to continual use.
All this prep work and practice will help but I keep fighting the urge to dive right into the sewing. It doesn’t help that my other major project moves along in a similar prep-stage, the WW2 Advance Jacket for the RTW Tailoring Sew-Along.