These jeans trace their roots to Mary Nanna. I was casting around for a not-stretch jeans pattern with a bit of “flavor,” and found her Pattern Review of Burda 08-2009-106. I thought “Hey! I know her! I love those jeans!” She graciously answered a few questions I had about construction, suggesting I bone the waistband seams or use belt loops to keep it smooth and above my waist as intended. I chose to bone with 1/4″ lightweight rigileine in the SB and SF seams.
I laughed at her hilarious VPL top-stitching, and decided to have a poke at it myself. This pattern has no back pockets so I invented them, and omitted the front pockets because Mary Nanna said they gap.
I made these jeans last Friday, as my husband and daughter went to go visit his family I had the time.
Burda and I have a shaky relationship at best, the instructions for these were about as clear as mud. The pattern for the front piece is on the sheet as one, then in the preparation they tell you to cut it down the middle. I wasn’t sure- did that mean with or without seam allowances? I’m still not sure. I flipped a coin and chose without seam allowances, though I compensated by making narrower seams on the sides. Either way, I lucked out and it worked.
I used a 38 for the front, and 40 for the back. A quickie muslin gave me more confidence, so I charged on. It’s too hot here most of the year to wear thick jeans, so I made them 3/4 length. When making design changes like that, it’s easy to make a big mess so I decided to fall back on the Golden Ratio. I figure if it worked for ancient architects, it could work for me.
The basic formula is: a/b=1.618… I marked where the waistband began on my body and measured straight down from my shoulder. 42.5 cm, which would be “b.” I solved for “a” and rounded, coming up with 69 cm length for the pants. I might use this ratio more often.
I used Debbie Cook’s jeans fly tutorial. It’s been such a long time since I last made a fly; I didn’t want to make a mess. I can’t recommend her too highly.
Fantastic pattern, feels great, very fun to wear. I made some pretty ugly jeans earlier this year, but these make up for them.
Decorative stitching on the inside, and my “tag” embroidered near the waistline. Might as well, right?
In other blog-sewing-world news, I received this lovely McCall’s dressing gown pattern from Petal at Petal’s Pattern Stash. Thank you so much! I have a ridiculously large amount of weird flannel in the closet, I’ll dye it and make this up for winter. Full-length circle skirt- fetch my smelling salts.