Hemp: For Sewing, Not Smoking

Hemp

When I mention hemp fabrics in classes, my students often giggle and go shifty-eyed or else mutter about “sackcloth.”   Hemp is in fact a versatile and sustainable crop, and I enjoy working with the fabric.

To the gigglers- THC is the compound in cannabis which some smoke to experience a high, and may also have medicinal qualities.  Industrial hemp contains negligible levels of THC.  I can not roll up my scraps of hemp fabric and smoke them.   (If only, right?)

Those who think of hemp fabric as a rough sort of cloth, read on.

In the course of my research on fiber ethics and production practices, I kept returning to hemp for superior performance and sustainability.  In fact, it sounds like a miracle fiber. Hemp:

• Uses no fungicides, pesticides, or herbicides.  Though it does require fertilizers, this is often provided organically
• Crops help replenish nutrients lost to cotton and wheat farming
• Quick and prolific growth
• Resists mildew, sun damage, and insects.  Clipper ships used hemp sails and ropes for these reasons.

 (A bast fiber, meaning the usable fibers run along the stem.)

• Has greater heat conductivity than other vegetable fibers which means it feels cool in the summer and keeps the wearer warm in the winter.  When you lay your hand on good linen, it feels cool to touch.  That’s heat conductivity at work.  Hemp is more efficient than linen.
• Stronger and tougher than other fibers
• 100% biodegradable

The anti-bacterial and anti-microbial properties interest me the most; I live in a tropical environment.  Even when I wash it immediately, one good sweat will kill a t-shirt because bacteria dwell in the sweaty places and create a lasting stink.  Don’t get me started about mildew.

How would the miracle fiber stand up to reality?  First I tried hemp-cotton from fabrics.com, a sturdy bottom or suit weight with a soft drape.  I made a skirt suit and a pair of shorts from this fabric.  Hemp softens with repeated washing and reveals a soft luster akin to silk.

I learned not to make welts or bound buttonholes with hemp fabric because it ravels at the corners.

(Head to toe hemp-cotton)

(First tailoring attempt)

Next, I thought to try Hemp Traders or NearSeaNaturals, but the postage- oh the postage!  Then I found Margaret River Hemp Co. based out of Perth!  Their fabrics come in every shade of beige, no problem since I’m addicted to iDye.

Model T, a drafting experiment with hemp/cotton jersey:

Heavier than usual jersey with the same drape I notice in other hemp fabrics.  It’s cool against my skin, though it has a slightly nubbly texture.  I had problems dyeing this black, but no more so than I might with any other fabric.

Check out the same jersey dyed blue:

After continuous wear for nine days in the rain forest conducting surveys, Mr. Steph reports no stink, no rot.

Hat of 100% hemp bottom weight, stiff at first.  I have 3 more meters of that hemp.  The Sun Jacket is a hemp-silk blend, the same I’m using for Advance Lady Adventurer.  

The hemp-silk stands up to daily wear as sun protection and tends to resist dirt and sweat-stink, I toss her in the wash once a week or so.

Hemp is machine washable and it is advisable to pre-wash the fabric several times before cutting because it softens the fabric and shrinks as much as it will.   I find it very easy to sew, less wiggly than linen, though it can pull at the seams when placed under stress so is best suited for semi-fitted or unfitted garments.  It does wrinkle, but I consider that the least of my worries.  When I putt a hemp garment from the washer, I hang it up and smooth it with my hands.  I might spot press when dry.

While I’m still learning how best to handle this fiber, I have to say I’m impressed with both its sustainability and performance. As more people use and wear hemp, the price will come down and perhaps put a dent in destructive cotton production.

A word against modern methods of hemp fabric production at Aurora Silk.

Hemp Industries

Hemp Information

History of Hemp

Any experience sewing or wearing hemp to share?  Links?  Anecdotes?  I decided to make a longer than usual post about my experiences with hemp because practical information on the fabric can be difficult to find.