Despite the double layers of fabric used throughout, Burda doesn’t instruct you to enclose the seams. I completely changed the way it goes together:
- Sew right shoulder seam on exterior
- Sew right shoulder seam on interior
- Sew right armscythe
- Repeat process for left
- Sew side seams on each layer of skirt
- Slip one skirt inside the other, seams facing each other
- Put in all gathering stitches
- Make placket (only need to cut one, by the way)
- Sew yoke to skirt
- Bind neck edge
- Make belt loop and belt
I had a hard time stabilizing the fabric (rayon lycra slub knit. ugh), it wanted to stretch like a demon- especially when joining the yoke to the skirt, which is visible in the photos. Eventually I gave up on perfect stitching. I used a fusible bias tape on most of the seams to keep it tidy. The more I sew with knits, the more I think I like wovens better- both for wearing and sewing. This dress is comfortable and admittedly slouchy- perfect for around the house.
I don’t like slouchy. Time to find some 30’s house dress patterns made with wovens. A bungalow apron or wrapper or something of the sort.
I sized up for this dress, a Burda half size 20, figuring if I sized up I’d have plenty of room in the bust. It feels fine, but it does not at all look the same on me as it does on the breastless model. I cut the belt loops the size Burda directed, I should have added seam allowances because it turned out too narrow. It’s higher than intended because of that. I used mis-matched buttons from a bulk crafty button pack I foolishly bought when I was re-building my sewing room.
It will get lots of wear, yes, but it’s just a little off somehow. It makes me feel a little dumpy. Also, I know I will only every wear it at home because the armscythe is low enough to show my bra. About 3/4″, in case anyone out there is planning to make this one.
All that said, I might make this again if I get my hands on some super fine wool jersey or perhaps some more bamboo. It’s comfortable and utilitarian. I might like it more with a collar of some description.
Generally unrelated: I found these adorable custom wedding cake toppers while surfing for the Burda model picture for this dress. I’m not into cake toppers as a rule, but these are quirky and sweet.