First we had to choose buttons. We (finally) managed to get the steampunk gears from Treasurecast– Five large and five medium.
1″ buttons for the fronts, I made the buttonholes 1 3/8″ according to my shank buttonhole guide. If they do prove slightly too large, the piped buttonholes will hold the coat front together.
Buttonholes must be made before applying the interfacing. I used solvy to mark the CF and the buttonholes. Thanks to all the practice, they went in beautifully without a second thought. I stitched them shut with silk thread, apparently only silk thread doesn’t leave impressions when steamed and pressed.
Left front after I cut buttonhole windows and catch-stitched them in place. I made chest pieces and a shoulder pad pocket as per the instructions in one of my old tailoring manuals, then applied them to the interfacing with a serpentine stitch. The blue fabric is some closely woven cotton designed to help reduce bulk in the seams. I marked the pad-stitching grid: 1″ squares on the front, 1/2″ squares along the roll line and 1/4″ closer to the end of the lapel.
Right front after pad-stitching. I still need to tape. I made more 1/2″ squares than I marked, I realized I probably marked too many small ones. And I wanted to finish it. I found it easier and quicker to do the small pad-stitching. On the coat front body I found it too easy to catch too much of the fashion fabric and kept flipping it over to the other side to check. I’m probably going overboard with the stitching, but that’s the result of too many great projects in the past that I look at now and think “If only I put in the extra effort, this would still be wearable.”
That flannel is black.
Roll line. In addition to stitching it over my hand, I steamed it five times over a little lapel roll I made of scrap wool fabric. It worked like a charm.
Since this is a longer-term sort of project and I find I need other in-between projects, I thought I’d just post weekly progress reports. Because I work well with little goals, by next week I want to
- Complete the fronts- pad-stitching and taping
- Assemble the back
- Stitch fronts to back
- Begin stitching the undercollar
I think that’s reasonable.