Third Wave Offensive: Greatcoat Muslin

I know, I know the pictures are bad.  I’m very sick of it, too.

I’m also sick of all these fittings.  How silly of me to think it would be so easy.  I suppose it isn’t the coat body that is giving me a run for my money, but the sleeve and armscythe.

I altered the back yoke piece to give more room across the back.  I used the waistcoat alteration as a guide, but I think I added too much.  The seam seems to sit a little off the edge of his shoulder where I added width.  Additionally, while I fixed the front-reaching mobility issues, it appears he can not comfortably lift his arms above his head.  I believe the fix for this involves raising the bottom of the armscythe.  Does that also include adding a little to the underneath part of the sleeve seam where it joins to the body? 

On a brighter note, I think the sleeve is in fact correct.  It looks much more like a sleeve should than my previous sleeves.  I can still see problems, but I think once I have the shape of the armscythe sorted, it will fall into line.   This one is the Palmer Pletsch sleeve, though I have the Phat Chick sleeve in reserve.

So to sum: shave a little width off the back armscythe on the back yoke piece.  I think I added too much.  Raise the lower armscythe by 1/2″ (why not?).  Maybe add a little to the sleeve, too.  I’ll take a little time and read my books.  This muslin is really starting to get under my skin.  I want it done.  I want to cut the thing, I want to make it.  I want to work on other projects, but I can’t get into other projects because this one is looming large in my mind.

/end whinge


One comment

  1. I think your analysis of the armscye is correct. In a fitted garment, the lower the bottom of the armscye, the more constrained the movement of the arm. And if you raise the bottom of the armscye, you probably do need to lengthen the underarm sleeve seam. You may also need to adjust the sleeve cap as the entire armscye seamline will be shorter, which would affect how much fabric you can ease into the seam.


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