The madwoman in her blissfully untidy sewing room. This is what I wore under the muslin- good bra, normal gored skirt, and a light cardigan. Should I perhaps fit it over a heavy cardigan, what would be most prudent?
I cut the front and back on the straight of grain, after much head-scratching, reading vintage drafting books, and referring to the pattern itself. I cut the Front Yoke on the crazy straight of grain. I figured that if I want to play with cut, I should understand the original cut.
The sleeves are bias tubes. Not sure how I feel about that.
My middle name is not Quasimodo, I merely slipped a stripped down raglan shoulder pad under the fabric on one side. The pad is quite thin- I don’t dig the linebacker look but a tailored coat or jacket needs some shoulder structure. I think it looks better with. What are all those wrinkles? Those wrinkles, ladies, represent the differences between my juicy round backside and tube-snake-girdles of the 30’s.
Same problem here. The marked CF wants to swing to the side; sure signs I need more hip room. I see heaps of wrinkles around the bust, too. Perhaps I need to do a FBA. FBAs with cut-on sleeves are a piece of cake.
I marked the funny “waist” line. It is very, very clever and I learned a valuable construction technique: these seams don’t go together in one long line. You do the top, then the bottom and then join them together with 8 or so separate little seams. I joined each front piece, then each side of the pointed back, then the weird tiny gusset seams. I learned that the pattern has all appropriate clipping built into it, I don’t have to pin with my tiny scissors ready on the table.
Now, this side/underbust seam hits under the bust. Should I still do an FBA? Generally, this pattern has 1930’s ease, which I should have expected. My waist and hips conform to the measurements given on the envelope- then why doesn’t it fit properly?
I don’t wear one of these, do you?
I think not. This brings me to an interesting question. Do I wear “full-vintage” from the skin out in order to maintain the absolutely authentic vintage style, the exact look? Or do I artfully alter the pattern to maintain the lines and style, but to accommodate my unbridled curves?
To me, the answer is clear. I can easily see how another person might make a different choice. I do girdle up sometimes, but usually only for my 50’s dresses. Once or twice a week. My girdle doesn’t squish, it just maintains the need for Zero Ease.
So what should I do in this case? Well, I think I can leave the lower front alone. Once I fix the back, the front CF line should swing forward. In the back, I’ll do something like a FBA, but for my backside. The idea occurred to me a long time ago, I haven’t had the chance to try it out. I’ll leave the waist as-is.
I think I will do a small full bicep alteration to the front and back sleeve. I don’t think it will change the lines, but it will afford a little more ease through that area. As it stands right now, the bicep area is firm but not tight; once I make the sleeve up in two or three heavy fabrics I think it will be another story. I suspect creating more room through the top of the cut-on sleeve will eliminate the wrinkles under my arms, too. Rather unsightly.
Finally, I think I will do a small-ish FBA on the Front Yoke. 3/4″. Just to be sure.
Other than that, I like the coat. I like it enough to do all the alterations and try again.
With the collar pulled over. The pattern shows to put a loop on the end of the collar for buttoning. I think I might put two or three, because it gives a little mandarin-collar effect to have several buttons along my collarbone. This picture tells me not to worry too much about an FBA. I think I’ll still try it.