I’m working on the waistcoat in Burda 2767 for my husband. He asked for the Greatcoat; I figured the waistcoat would make a good removable interlining, and would afford me a chance to work with the fabric before sinking my teeth into the coat. Last night I made the muslin.
The waistcoat is cut on generally the same lines as the coat, though the back is simplified:
This also allows me a chance to work on fit. I knew ahead of time that waist length and shoulders might be an issue. His shoulder seams never sit on his shoulders, and he usually has little hollows of fabric at the front shoulder. These are things only a fit-crazy wife would notice.
Based on his measurements, I traced off a size 38. Nearly every one of his measurements fell exactly between size 36 and 38. Usually I just go for whichever size is closer; in cases like this I find it prudent to go for the larger size and adjust a muslin.
I took flat pattern measurements of the center back, the waist, the chest, and shoulder length on front and back. Then I subtracted the size measurements to give me wearing ease. I like to know how much ease I’m working with, otherwise I would just add or subtract based on size measurements/Husband measurements. For example, if I didn’t care to know how much ease I’m working with, I could look and see that the waist measure for size 38 is 34″. I could compare that to husband’s 33″ waist and easily surmise I need to take off 1″ from the waistline. Incidentally, the waistcoat has 6″ of waistline ease.
My flat pattern measurements told me to shorten the waist length by 1″. For some reason the chest flat measurement worked out to be perfect so I left it alone, and I took off 1″ total at the waist. I did that by measuring .25″ from the edge of the pattern and tapering the side seam into it. Shoulder length was correct.
Then I put it on Husband. The fit was ok. On the left, I trimmed and tucked the armscythe seam allowances, that made it sit smoother.
Again, the fit was just ok. I could probably get away with making it up as is and no one but me and a few other picky-pickies would notice. But I love my husband, and I think he should wear a well-fitting garment for once. It makes you feel completely different about your body when your clothes conform to your build, rather than highlighting your “flaws.”
Notice my finger, that is for your benefit to mark the shoulder seam. Notice how his t-shirt sleeve pulls funny because of the forward rotated shoulder. I consulted Betzina and FFRP. I find both of those books good for diagnoses, but still somewhat lacking. Anyway, I unpicked the shoulder seam, and adjusted it to sit where it ought to.
I had to pivot the shoulder seam 1″ forward before it sat where it should. Then I unpicked the back yoke seam on the same side and re-adjusted. From the neck to about 3″ down it sat beautifully, then the seam went awry. I ended up taking about 3/8″ bow shape out of the back at that seam. The seam on the back yoke piece became straighter. I don’t really understand the geometry of it, but it worked.